AppleColor High-Resolution RGB Monitor
From Higher Intellect Wiki
1 MONITOR ---------- AppleColor 13" High-Resolution RGB monitor 2 PROBLEM ---------- Powers itself off sporadically, green power light goes off with switch still stuck at 'ON' position. 3 SOLUTION 1 ------------- Adjust the variable resistor on the _back_ panel of the unit. DETAILS - On older models, this is simply the topmost control with a "mini-sun" icon beside it. - On newer models, this is accessible only after removing the case. This resistor is labelled "Cut-Off". The picture brightness level will vary with your adjustments. COMMENTS Normally, this solution only works if the problem was caused by a prior over- adjustment of this particular control/resistor. My experience with a working monitor is that if this brightness setting exceeds a threshold, the monitor will power off automatically. Resetting it to a normal level solves the problem. For my case, this was not the cause and thus SOLUTION 1 did not work. 4 SOLUTION 2 ------------- Replace the High voltage resistor. (the 'RED' block, to be called the 'block'henceforth) This is the big(about size of 2 cigarette boxes piled), red block sitting on the bottom shield, with 2 suction wires attached _and_ 2 wires soldered to it. On it is the part no. 1-230-666-21. One of the suction wires leads to a suction cap on the CRT(Cathode Ray Tube). DETAILS You can('might' for option c) get this from: a) SONY dealer $66.68 1-800-488-7669 Authentic SONY part # 1-230-666-21 b) Computer Component source $27.99 1-800-356-1227 Fax : 1-800-926-2062 OEM part, discount of $1.00 for qty of 11 or more. Remember to tell them you want a "Macintosh Replacement Part" : ORDER #34-480 APPLE MO401 RGB HIGH VOLTAGE BLOCK PART #1-230-666-21 After you have specified the above info., the sales assistant might ask you "Is this a Flyback?". Remember to answer "Yes" although it is not. Otherwise the salesperson might say "Sorry we don't have the part". They like to think of this as a "Flyback" Note 1 : Next day delivery cost $9.90 Note 2 : They do handle International Sales, but transaction amt must exceed US$250 (International Voice no. 1-516-496-8780) (International Fax no. 1-516-496-8984) c) Apple dealer Apple part # 1-230-666-21, ask for # 34-484 COMMENTS Some soldering is required(just 1 or 2 wires) ** Remember, it is advisable not to remove the original block before your receive the replacement block. You might forget the orientation since the OEM block doesn't look alike. I ordered my part from b), which is an OEM replacement. It has exactly the same functionality/dimension but does not look as pretty. The replacement comes with a suction wire already connected, you plug the other end onto the CRT. When removing the original cup, you just squeeze it. There are 2 suction wires connected to the block, one goes to the CRT and the other connects to a board component(fly-back). You'll need to remove the Board suction wire connected to the original defective block. Trick - push the suction wire against the block and then release, the wire head has 2 ears that hook on to the gaps in the metal socket, but the whole thing is pressured up with a spring. After replacing this part, my monitor was up and working again! 5 ADVICES FROM OTHER PEOPLE ---------------------------- Below are abstracts of what people sent me to help, they should give you a clearer picture. ________________________________________________________________________________ I recently performed some repairs to my Apple color monitor and thought that I should share my experiences with the net. I have an apple hi-res 13" RGB monitor. Lately I've had problems with the monitor cutting out (turning itself off completely). This symptom is like that described in an Apple recall, but my serial number was not included in the recall. According to Larry Pina's book, _The Dead Mac Scrolls_, the problem can be remedied by adjusting a resistor labelled "cutoff". Making the adjustment allowed me to use the monitor, but each time I adjusted it the picture became darker. On the facing page in Pina's book, he tells about replacing a high voltage resistor, but doesn't indicate if replacing it solves the same problem as adjusting the cutoff resistor. Anyway, I decided to replace the resistor. I ordered a new high voltage resistor From Sony, using the part number in Dead Mac Scrolls. The part, with shipping and sales tax, was $62. This component is the thing that attaches to the wire with the suction cup plugged into the CRT. I was a bit nervous about messing around with the high voltage, but I discharged everything with a grounded screwdriver. It took me a little while to figure how to unplug the suction-cup connector (you squeeze it). Then, I had to unsolder two leads and solder in the new part. That was not too difficult. There appeared to be some grease under the suction cup, so I used automotive dielectric silicone grease (for spark plug wires) when I reinstalled the new part. Finally, I reassembled the monitor, held my breath, and turned it on. Voila! It worked. I readjusted the cutoff resistor back to its original setting, to make the picture brighter, and the monitor didn't cut out. Time will tell if the repair holds, but for right now I'm happy. I hope these experiences will be useful to someone else. David Allan firstname.lastname@example.org ________________________________________________________________________________ If your monitor shuts itself off after a random amount of time, one of the likely sources of trouble is a defective high-voltage monitor. This was covered until March 31 by an unannounced warranty, but no longer. :( Before you give up hope, get Larry Pina's book, Macintosh II Repair & Upgrade Secrets, and read pp. 53-54 for a quick fix anyone can do in 10 minutes that may save you an expensive trip to the shop. I have repaired dozens of these. There are three common causes for the old 13" monitor shutting off. two described by Pina, one not. Symptom: Monitor appears to shut off. Green power light goes out. ------- 1) Adjust the cut-off a smidgen. Described by Pina. Never seen it help. 2) Replace the High voltage resistor block, Sony p/n 1-230-666-21. Has always fixed this problem. Expensive part and hard to find. I have 4 left from my old service shop days. I'll sell 3 for $50 each. Requires soldering. Computer Component source, 1-800-356-1227, has these for $26.99 Alternate Symptom: Monitor goes black or remains black at power up. Green power ----------------- light stays on. Good News: No parts cost. Not documented by Pina. This is usually caused by cracked solder joints on the small PC board that plugs into the back of the CRT. Touch up the solder joints, and you're back in business. :) Please don't mess with any of this unless you are an experienced hardware technician with the required skills. The color screen can retain a 45,000 volt charge if the bleeder resistor is broken, and can kill you if you have a weak heart. I do mean to scare you. This really can be dangerous if you do not know what you're doing. Jerry Stubbs Andy Seligman email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org ________________________________________________________________________________ The capacitor a stand alone component that is attached to the bottom shield. It ties directly into the flyback and then into the CRT. No mistaking it.... It's rectangular in shape and red in color..... It also has one other cable assy that plugs into the main logic board. Dealer cost for the part is $50.00 but they may not sell it to you. It's suppose to be installed by an authorized tech so usually it will not be sold over the counter. Roy H. Robinson Roy_H._Robinson@onenet.com ________________________________________________________________________________ Thanks to : email@example.com.CH Wolf Christoph firstname.lastname@example.org David Allan email@example.com Andy Seligman Roy_H._Robinson@onenet.com Roy H. Robinson firstname.lastname@example.org Jerry Stubbs email@example.com Kung Chyun Tang and all who helped.
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