Created page with "<html> <h2><a name="ROLLERS">Paper stops before coming out of the printer: The Rollers</a></h2> <blockquote> I have bought a used NeXT but it didn't print. The rubber rolle..."
<html>
<h2><a name="ROLLERS">Paper stops before coming out of the printer: The
Rollers</a></h2>
<blockquote>
I have bought a used NeXT but it didn't print. The rubber rollers
didn't take the paper in the printer correctly. The rubber was too old.
<p>
I tried to get some replacement parts, but I got a quote of $160
for the whole mechanism. I didn't search any longer and fixed the printer
myself.
<p>
Here is how.
<p>
<h3>How I Opened the printer:</h3>
<p>
<blockquote>
1. I unplugged all the cables from the printer.
<p>
2. I removed both, the upper and lower plastic covers.
<p>
3. I removed the part of the mechanism that covers the very first rubber
roller - the one which also has the opening button on it. I didn't unplug
its cables, I just turned it out from the printer.
<p>
4. The axle of the rubber roller (the very first rubber roller) has an
electromagnet at one end. I used an 'appropriately adjusted' paper clip
to hold the electromagnet in the open position.
<p>
5. Now, the rubber roller can be easily accessed and also
moved in one direction only.
</blockquote>
<p>
<h3>How I renewed the rubber roller:</h3>
<blockquote>
<p>
1. I used "Lintless Head Cleaning Shwabs" by GC Electronics. <br>
(Made from foam, not cotton). With no chemicals on them (dry).
<p>
2. I have put on them "Rubber Cleaner Revitalizer" - PRB LINE.<br>
Made for Projector Recorder Belt, part No. RCR-21.
<p>
3. I cleaned the rubber roller with the shwabs and revitalizer.
<p>
4. I have also cleaned all the other rubber rollers I could reach. <br>
And I also have put some "Synthetic Hydrocarbon Grease" on the gears.<br>
(PRB LINE, manufactured for Projector Recorder Belt, part No.608.)<br>
<p>
Then I have put the printer together, tried, and the printer works.
<p>
Here is the address of Projector Recorder Belt: <br>
PRB <br>
Route 3 - Hwy 59 <br>
Whitewater WI 53190-0176 <br>
<p>
I have bought all the parts in a local store, but they told me that
they also do mailorder:
<p>
Fulton Industrial Electronics <br>
5830 So. Pennsylvania <br>
Lansing, Michigan 48911 <br>
Phone (517) 394-5020 <br>
<p>
Some people have reported that they succeeded in sliding the rubber off
the axle, turning it inside out and reusing it.
<p>
Some other people reported that they found a replacement rubber
roller for cheap.
</blockquote>
<p>
<h3>
What would I have done if the printer didn't work: (I am happy,
that I didn't have to do this)
</h3>
<blockquote>
<p>
1. I would have opened the printer as described above.
<p>
2. Then I would have put a very thin layer of silicon 'rubber-like' glue
on the very first, problematic rubber roller.
<p>
3. I think that I would have used a finger to disperse the glue in a
very thin layer.
<p>
4. Then I would have tapped the glue with my finger to make the surface of
the glue more rough.
<p>
5. I would have waited for the glue to dry, put the printer together and
if it prints.<br>
<p>
If it didn't work, I would look for a replacement rubber roller.
Well, I have fixed my printer and wanted to let you know how I did
it and what my optional plans were.
<p>
</blockquote>
<b>Disclaimer:</b> Notice that I have formulated every single sentence as 'what I did'
and 'what I would have done'. So, I am not suggesting that you try
it.
</blockquote>
<p>
<p align="RIGHT"><a href="#TOP">
<i>Back to INDEX at top of this page</i></a><br>
</p>
<hr>
<h2><a name="GEAR">Paper stops before coming out of the printer:
The GEAR</a></h2><br>
<blockquote>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FFFF00" width="70%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="20" border="0">
<tr><td>
I followed these instructions to replace
the fuser gear (subsequently to be called "the damn gear")
in my own NeXTPrinter, and it was a real pain in the gluteus
maximus.... however, if I did it, most creatures with
opposable thumbs should be able to, with patience and (most
importantly) CAREFUL NOTES. I didn't take careful notes,
or I'd offer them to you.... I'd also know what to do with
those 7 screws I've got left over.... Nonetheless, it is
still working 4 years later.
<p>
Write down CLEARLY where each screw came from, and place
them somewhere safe where you'll be able to keep track of
them. If you take really good notes, send them to me and
to the newsgroup (csn.hardware) and you'll be loved by all
who own NeXT Hardware.
</td></tr>
</table>
<p>
<h3><a name="GEARORDER">Ordering the Gear</a></h3>
<p>
<b>From:</b> John Michopoulos <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20020803044835/mailto:[email protected]"> [email protected]</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> NeXT printer gear: Ordering Info<br>
<b>Date:</b> Thu, 12 May 1994 12:54:43 GMT
<p>
Remember the problem of the paper not coming all the way through
the black printers??
<p>
The solution is to replace the 14 tooth gear in the fuser assemply
with a new one. (You need a very long screwdriver to take off 4
screws holding the fuser assy. down after you take the top and side
covers off). Thanks to all the kind people that responded I finally
ordered nad replaced the gears on all of the printers with the
problem.
<p>
As a small token of appreciation I post the detailed info to order
them for future reference and perhaps for inclusion in the FAQs.....
<p>
1. Provider:<br>
CHENESKO PRODUCTS INC, <br>
2221 FIFTH AVE., SUITE 4, <br>
RONKONKOMA, NY 11776<br>
Tel. No. 516-467-3205<br>
<p>
2. Gear:
<p>
14 tooth, Model Nu. RSI-0132
<p>
Keep in mind that this tooth has double the width of the original
one and when you replace it you won't be able to put back the safty
washer that was there for the old one. This does NOT create any
problem though because the assembly cover plays the role of
restricting the gear to not come out.
<p>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FFFF00" width="70%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="20" border="0">
<tr><td>
In August 1995 CHENESKO informed me that they were no longer taking on
individual clients.... <br> However, a new gear can be used, see below.
</td></tr>
</table>
<p>
<b>Date:</b> 10 Apr 1996 18:32:02 -0700<br>
<b>From:</b><a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20020803044835/mailto:[email protected]"> [email protected]</a><br>
<b>Newsgroups:</b> comp.sys.next.hardware<br>
<b>Subject:</b> NeXT Printer repair success story
<p>
I think I have a decent, available replacement part number for the
infamous paper feed problem (Large rubber roller that picks up the paper)
with the paper going 1/2 way into the printer & not feeding.<br> <br> My
printer was fixed with a (purportedly) hp replacement roller, part #
RA1-8449-000 000 the cost is only a couple of bucks (less than four, I
believe).
<p>
It looks a bit different (smaller diameter plastic spool with 1/4" thick
rubber section). Nonetheless, it FITS. Perfectly. All feed problems
were solved. As for a supplier, anyone that sells hp parts should be able
to get it. I wheedled mine off of the repair shop on my campus, they are
seeing if their supplier (a large printer parts company) will be willing
to sell to individuals. This company also has stock on the small gear
that causes the paper exit problems.
<p>
<h3><a name="GEARREPLACE">Replacing the Gear</a>
</h3>
If you continually get messages like, "sorry, the printer is jammed"
and you have to pull each page out the last inch, you probably need
to replace the 14 tooth gear in the output stage (fuser ass'y).
<p>
You can see this gear before you disassemble the printer, so that
is a good first step. Then read these instructions all the way
through and see if you want to attempt it. Next recommends replacing
the entire fuser assy (big bucks) if the gear is damaged, but
Chenesko,Inc., of Ronkonkoma, NY sells the gears for $2.31. The part
number is RS1-0132. They recommended I also replace the 20 tooth
gear, number RS1-0116, but I don't know if it is really necessary.
Their phone number is 800-221-3516.
<p>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FFFF00" width="70%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="20" border="0">
<tr><td>
They no longer sell to individuals, see above
</td></tr>
</table>
<p>
To examine your gear, open the rear (delivery ) door and undo the
screw attaching the strap that keeps the door from opening down all
the way. The gear is on the side nearest the power input to the
printer.
<p>
There are two gears on the part of the delivery ass'y that swings
down. The suspect gear engages the top one, but is mounted on the
fixed portion of the fuser. Ours had several teeth missing and/or
damaged. To get the gear off you have to remove the fuser ass'y.
To remove the fuser you must open the printer lid fully, so it is
straight up. To open the lid fully you must remove the case. To
remove the case you must remove the plastic cover on the lid.
<p>
Are you getting the idea now? This will be a lot of fun, and take
most of the afternoon. I hope you have a spacious, well-lit area,
because there are a lot of screws, and a lot of them are painted
black, so they are hard to see when you drop them, unless you drop
them inside of the printer, where you might NEVER see them again.
<p>
Fortunately, as with all computer equipment, they seem to put lots
of extras in, so just make sure there aren't any where they might
do damage, like short out the mega KILOVOLT corona power supply, or
grind into the REGISTRATION rollers. You do want your printouts to
be straight, don't you?
<p>
So, if you're ready, here we go.<p>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FF0000" width="70%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="20" border="0">
<tr><th>Disclaimer</th></tr>
<tr><td><font size="+1">
Be careful if you try this procedure. There are dangerous voltages
present, and even if you are too chicken to work on it powered up,
you could cut yourself, or drop the whole thing on your foot, thus
voiding the warranty. Also, the printer won't work without the
covers, because there are two secret switches that inform the NeXT
CPU that someone "is fooling around with the printer again."
</font> </td></tr>
</table>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Preparation
</b>
<dd>
Most mere mortals will want to power down everything and disconnect
the cables, etc. Remove the cartridge and paper trays, etc.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Remove the Lid Cover
</b>
<dd>
Open the lid and remove 3 screws. They DO NOT have any red paint on
them.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Remove the Back Door
</b>
<dd>
There is one screw that holds the strap. When you can swing it clear
down, you can squeeze the hinges together and remove the door.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Remove the Case
</b>
<dd>
There are maybe seven screws that hold the case on. Four are right
on top. Two are just inside the rear door area. Two are down inside
where you store that green cleaning tool. 4 + 2 + 2 = 7, right? Say,
who was the last guy that worked on this printer anyway?
<p>
The case has to be convinced that you really need to remove it, even
when it is loose and all the screws are out.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Remove the FUSER Assembly
</b>
<dd>
You will need a PHILLIPS screwdriver for this, as with the previous
steps. But you will need a LONG one this time. Three of the screwsare
pretty easy to find. Just study the lower part of the fuser, as it
is screwed onto the bottom case. Two of the screws are inside. One
is under the lid next to the gears, the other near the green cleaning
tool. On the outside, in back, there is one on each side. One is
under the white wires that connect the fuser to the 10 AMP circuit
breaker, which is pretty near that gear, and close to the power
input. Unplug that cable. Then remove the small black screw that
holds the black plastic gear cover so you will have better access
to the last screw. Then you will have to wrestle the fuser out the
back of the printer. Be careful with it.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Disassemble the FUSER
</b>
<dd>
There are several screws and a spring. It's not too hard to take
apart. You can see the gear, so you just have to take off the covers
on that end of the ass'y to get to it. I should caution you that I
had trouble putting them back on, because they have funny shapes
and don't make a lot of sense. Plus I was tired, so I went home,
ate dinner, played with the dog, went to bed, got up and ate breakfast
before I put it back together. You might want to label some parts,
make some drawings, etc. to reassure yourself that you can put the
parts back just like they were.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Remove the Gear
</b>
<dd>
You can remove the gear pretty easily with a small screwdriver by
unspringing the "E"-ring that holds it on the shaft. Try not to bend
the e-ring.
</dl>
<p>
<dl>
<dt>
<b>
Putting Everything Back Together
</b>
<dd>
Sorry, I can't help you with this part (HA HA!) I told you you should
read the instructions first. Maybe you should buy a new printer,
or try to attach some third party printer via the serial port!
<p>
Well, if you got this far I hope you dropped little crumbs of bread
so you can find your way back. I try to save all the little screws
by putting them back in the holes they came from, or putting them
in some small container. You might clean some of the gears or the
paper path while you have it open. You can also install a new OZONE
filter. Remember OZONE is hazardous to your health, so you don't
want to inhale it.
</dl>
<p>
<b>A Few More Notes of Interest</b>
<p>
<blockquote>
Jacob Gore received gears for an <b>Apple Laserwriter</b> from Chenesko,
which are similar enough to work, but with some modification.
<p>
Also, if the original gear is in fair condition, it can be reversed on the
shaft until a replacement is ordered.
<p>
</blockquote>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FFFF00" width="70%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="20" border="0">
<tr><td>
I ended up calling Bell-Atlantic (1-800-499-6398). One of
the techies went and got a NeXTPrinter and pulled it apart
to help me put mine back together. I got mine apart OK and
the gear replaced, but had trouble getting it all back in
one piece. [That was 1995, I am not sure anyone
is still there who knows what a NeXT is.]
</td></tr>
</table>
</blockquote>
<p>
<p align="RIGHT"><a href="#TOP">
<i>Back to INDEX at top of this page</i></a><br>
<p align="LEFT">
<hr>
<h2>
<a name="TONER"> What kind of toner cartridges work with the NeXT LaserPrinter?</a>
</h2>
<blockquote>
<b>HP ref: HP 92295A</b> (that is what you will see on the box)
<p>
Toner cartridge for <b>HP Laserjet II, IID, III, IID</b>
<p>
We are using HP LaserJet2 cartridges. I think that in addition they are
the same as for HP LaserJet III - the Office Depot people should know.
Canon E-PS
Note: There are companies which will take your cartridge in exchange for a
new one which will save you considerable amount of $$$, such as
<a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20020803044835/http://www.itsnet.com/commercial/sti/">
http://www.itsnet.com/commercial/sti/</a>
</blockquote>
<p>
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<i>Back to INDEX at top of this page</i></a><br> <p align="LEFT">
<hr>
<h2>
<a name="LPBW">What type of black and white laser printer can I use with my NeXT?</a>
</h2>
<blockquote>
<p>
We use HP LaserJet 4M with PS, and HP DeskJet 1200C/PS,
both with JetDirect Ethernet MIO. Since the black hardware
does not have a parallel printer port, printing throughput
for any large PS files (like FAX jobs from FaxReader.app)
took forever via serial port. Now with ethernet, I don't
miss the black printer, even for printing fax pages.
<p>
Whatever you get, consider ethernet option unless you are printing mainly just text.
<p>
------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
For years I used a DeskJet 500 with the DOTS program, but if
you print mostly text, one of the PD drivers will do.
<br>
------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<p>
With some commercial printer drivers you are able
to run nearly ANY printer on NS, even without an
own PS unit.
<p>
They use the NS internal PS for rendering, but you might get problems
with the serial ports of the NeXT, they are simply to slow and most
printers even don't have a serial port. The solution of the port
problem are TCP/IP to parallel or a serial to parallel converters.
<p>
Please be careful with printers like the EPSON Stylus, or others
with an RS422 interface. It can't be used with NeXT machines!
<p>
<hr>
<b>Maybe you want to test JetPilot or Dots:</b>
<b>SUPPORTED PRINTERS:</b><br>
This is a list of printers which are supported namely. If
you have a printer which is not on this list, but offers a
"compatible" mode, simply select the printer, which seems
to be most likely. (all without warranty)
<b>Date:</b> 07 MAR 1996 16:49:30 +0100 <br>
<b>From:</b> Lars P. Fischer <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20020803044835/mailto: [email protected]">
<[email protected]></a> <br>
<b>Newsgroups:</b> comp.sys.next.hardware <br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Printer Recommendations <br>
<br>
>>>>> "Charles" == Charles Waltrip <[email protected]> writes:
<p>
Charles> I'm looking for a laser printer [...]
<p>
The printers I'm using at the moment are<br>
<br>
- HP LaserJet 4M Plus<br>
- HP LaserJet 4 siMX<br>
- Lexmark Optra Rt+<br>
<br>
All of these are nice, realiable, easy to set up, comes with good
network support, have good print quality and speed.
<p>
If I where to buy an extra printer right now I'd probably go with
another Lexmark. Having the 1200 dpi option is cool, and trust me, if
you're printing grayscale images, i.e., photographs and the like, the
difference is remarkable. It's not that much better for text, but the
difference is there, especially in text with a lot of math (small
typesize and italics).
<p>
In 600 dpi mode the Lexmark is somewhat faster than the LJ4M+ and
nearly as fast as the 4siMX. In 1200 dpi it's a good deal slower, but
hey, the HPs can't do it at all.
<p>
All are available with duplex options, something I'd consider
mandatory.
<p>
Whatever you do, go with a network version. Don't hassle with cables
and having one kind of system spool to another, etc. It's not worth
it. All of the above printers support multiprotocol network cards,
i.e., they will talk to both LAN Manager, Novell, LPD, etc. at the
same time.
<p>
If you want you UNIX boxes to do printer spooling for Windoze, Win95
or WNT, consider installing Samba on Unix. It'll provide trouble-free
LanManager-style printing for PCs, and it's make your UNIX box a
LM-style file server, too. Samba is free. (It'll let your UNIX box
print to a LanManager server, too, but why would you do that?)
<p>
/Lars<br>
-- <br>
Lars P. Fischer, [email protected], http://www.dina.kvl.dk/~fischer<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
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<p align="LEFT">
<hr>
<h2>
<a name="LPCOLOR">What type of COLOR laser printer can I use with my NeXT?</a>
</h2>
<p>
<blockquote>
<b>Date:</b> Tue, 23 Apr 1996 01:16:50 GMT<br>
<b>From:</b> Robert La Ferla <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20020803044835/mailto:[email protected]">
<[email protected]></a><br>
<b>Newsgroups:</b> comp.sys.next.sysadmin, comp.sys.next.software,
comp.sys.next.misc<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: color laser printer for nextstep<br>
<br>
You have three options: Lexmark Optra C, HP Color
LaserJet 5, and the Tektronix Phaser 550. The
Phaser is probably the best, followed by Lexmark
and then HP. However, I haven't carefully looked
at these so check the magazine reviews.
<b>Date:</b> 23 Apr 1996 10:02:47 GMT<br>
<b>From:</b> Paul Lynch <a href="[email protected]"><[email protected]></a><br>
<b>Newsgroups:</b> comp.sys.next.sysadmin, comp.sys.next.software,
comp.sys.next.misc<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: color laser printer for nextstep
<p>
I've used the Phaser (and earlier models), and it
is a really excellent printer; I don't have experience
of the others. The price is about $6,000+.<p>
</blockquote>
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<p align="LEFT">
<hr>
<h2>
<a name="ACCOUNTING">How do I turn on printer accounting?</a>
</h2>
<p>
<blockquote>
In NetInfoManager open printers and double-click on Local_Printer and add
a new key named "af" with value "/usr/adm/pracct". Then do a "touch
/usr/adm/pracct". This is all.
<p>
To actually see the accounting information use the command "pac". This is
very neat.
</blockquote><p>
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<p align="LEFT">
<hr>
<table align="center" bgcolor="#FFFF00" width="80%" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" border="0">
<tr align="center">
<td align="center">
One final editorial note: Don't forget to clean out that air filter on
the side of your printer from time-to-time!
</td>
</tr>
</table>